Interfacing

Interfacing is a woven, knit, or non-woven fabric used to add stability and shaping to garment areas like collars, cuffs, lapels, and jacket fronts. In costume construction, which often requires more structure than everyday clothing, interfacing is essential. It can be sewn in or fused using heat. Always apply interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Types of Interfacing

Attachment Type

Sew-In Interfacing
Stitched to the seam allowance of fashion fabric before garment construction. Common in couture garments.

Fusible Interfacing
Has adhesive on one side, activated by heat. Easy to use and favored in home sewing and ready-to-wear fashion. Identify the adhesive side by its shiny or bumpy texture.

Fiber Type

Woven Interfacing
Has a visible warp and weft. Works best with woven fashion fabrics. Available in both fusible and sew-in varieties.

Knit Interfacing
Has stretch similar to knit fabric. Used to maintain stretch and drape in knit garments.

Non-Woven Interfacing
Made of bonded fibers, with no grain. Can be cut in any direction but is less durable. Often used in inexpensive garments.

Interfacing Weights

• Lightweight – for minimal support; best for lightweight or delicate fabrics.

• Medium weight – versatile; good for waistbands, collars, and structured areas.

• Heavyweight – for thick fabrics or when additional structure is desired.

Choosing Suitable Interfacing: General Guide

Match the interfacing weight and type to your fashion fabric:

Applying Fusible Interfacing

1. Cut the interfacing:

   • Heavyweight: Trim to the stitch line.

   • Lightweight: Cut to the full size of the fabric piece.

2. Position layers:

   • Lay the fashion fabric right side down on the ironing board.

   • Place interfacing adhesive side down on the wrong side of the fabric.

3. Cover with a pressing cloth.

4. Press, don’t glide:
   Hold the iron in place as per manufacturer’s instructions—don’t move it around, which can shift layers or create wrinkles.

🎥 Demo: All About Interfacing

Recap the types, function, and application of fusible interfacing.

Buttonholes

Measuring a Buttonhole

Buttonhole Length = Button Diameter + Button Height + 1/8″

Placement

Position of Buttonhole = ½ button diameter from the edge of the placket OR as specified in your pattern directions.

Orientation (horizontal or vertical).

• Horizontal orientation is used when the garment will be under strain (e.g., bust, waist, or jackets).

• Vertical orientation is used in low-strain areas (e.g., dress shirts).

 

---

💡 Tip: Horizontal buttonholes help prevent gaping when fabric is pulled.

---

Marking Buttonholes

• Work on the wrong side of the fabric.

• Use a washable fabric pen or graphite pencil.

• Draw a center line for the buttonhole with hashmarks at each end (this is where your bar tacks will go).

🎥 Demo: Marking Buttonhole Placement

Watch the process of calculating buttonhole length and creating the markings for placement.

Making Machine Buttonholes

Machine processes vary—always consult your manual. Below are demonstration videos for machines used in our shop:

🎥 Demo: Bernina 215 Buttonholes

See the process of making a buttonhole with the Bernina 215

🎥 Demo: Bernina 1080 Buttonholes

See the process of making a buttonhole with the Bernina 1080

🎥 Demo: Bernina 1008/1006 Buttonholes

See the process of making a buttonhole with the Bernina 1008/1006

🎥 Demo: Singer 4411 Buttonholes

See the process of making a buttonhole with the Singer 4411

Opening Buttonholes

1. Apply Fray Check and allow to dry completely.

2. Insert pins at each end of the buttonhole inside the bar tacks.

3. Carefully open the center with a seam ripper, cutting up to the pins.

🎥 Demo: How to Safely Open a Buttonhole

See how to open a buttonhole